Top Barolo and Barbaresco showcase unique terroir and marvelous winemaking

Wines from celebrated Hong Kong fine wine collector, Mr. Wong.

義大利西北部 Piemonte 的 Barolo 與 Barbaresco 葡萄酒一向以高品質、高複雜度並深具陳年潛力聞名遐邇,號稱雙。好友引薦下,得到一個難得機遇,品嘗知名收藏家抱青老師的藏酒,至今仍印象深刻。於是以積累多年的科學專業,分析當時的品酒筆記,這六款酒皆清楚表達 Nebbiolo 的玫瑰花瓣、酸櫻桃與結構性丹寧的品種特性,恰到好處的橡木桶風味與多年瓶陳發展出的淡淡焦油味。我們可以品嚐 Piemonte 溫帶大陸性氣候下顯著的日夜溫差,帶給葡萄清晰的酸度與結實的單寧,南坡向使得晚熟的 Nebbiolo 獲得充分陽光,發展出複雜的迷人風味和高品質的成熟單寧。更為有趣的是葡萄園的高度與土壤,在偏冷或偏熱的特殊年份,對葡萄風味的影響。除此之外,釀酒師在這些特殊天候,如何以不同的釀造溫度、器皿和技巧,展現 Nebbiolo 引人入勝的不同面向與釀酒師的個人風采。

1. Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva 1990

Altitude: 250 meters

Aspect: south, south-west

Soils: limestone

  • pale garnet
  • Nose: medium intensity of rose petal, mint (primary aromas), and hay, tar (tertiary aromas from ageing)
  • Palate: dry with medium(+) acidity, a high level of ripe yet structured tannins, high alcohol (14 %), full body, medium(+) flavour intensity of rose petal and sour cherry (primary flavours), dark chocolate, tar, volatile acidity, fig, prune (from ageing), ester, with medium(+) finish of bitter almond, dried fruit, and dry sensation
  • Evaluation: The wines is very elegant. Its high alcohol, fresh acidity, and concentrated fruit are in delicate balance. A hint of volatile acidity adds to its complexity, showing oxidative development via long bottle ageing. The wine does not show pronounced flavour intensity. However, the well evolved tertiary flavours and its delicate primary fruit show sufficient concentrations and balance well, indicating high quality grapes leading to wines with ageing potential. The southwestern aspect of Santo Stefano facilitates late-ripening Nebbiolo to reach full ripeness. Colder soils of limestone and clay tends to slow down the ripening of grapes and preserve delicate primary aromas of Nebbiolo. Clay helps preserve water vital for grape ripening in 1990 with poor precipitation. The estery notes may come from partial whole bunch fermentation or fermentation at lower temperature that are often used to perform gentle extraction of tannins and to retain fresh fruit.


2. Gaja Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo 1990

Altitude: 250 meters

Aspect: south

Soils: calcareous silt, clay

  • medium garnet
  • Nose: medium(+) intensity of rose, rose petal, plum, and leather, fig, dark chocolate, tar
  • Palate: dry with medium acidity, a high level of ripe, mouth-coating tannins, high alcohol (14 %), medium(+) flavour intensity of rose, cream (malolactic fermentation), dark chocolate (from oak ageing), medium(+) finish with sour red cherry, mint, cloves (new oak), and dry sensation
  • Evaluation: New oak influences are subtle and well integrated with primary fruits. The south-facing aspect ensures highest sunlight interception in Barbaresco so that grapes and tannins can achieve full ripeness. Silt and clay help preserve water, particularly important in dry vintages like 1990. Tannins are structured and soft, indicating high quality of fruit with full ripeness and sophisticated extraction.


3. Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino Riserva 2002

Altitude: 350~440 meters (Francia vineyard)

Aspect: south-west

Soils: sandstone, chalk, and clay

  • pale garnet
  • Nose: medium(+) intensity of dried rose petal, red cherry, mint, spices
  • Palate: dry with medium(+) acidity, medium(+) tannins (ripe and structured), high alcohol (14.5%), full body, medium(+) intensity of red cherry, strawberry, cranberry, creamy notes (malolactic fermentation), cloves and cedar box (oak), medium(+) finish with sour cherry, and dry sensation
  • Evaluation: Monfortino is known to be produced from grapes of Francia vineyard in outstanding vintages. This wine shows an amazing complexity and delicate fruity flavours from such a cool vintage of 2002. A unique wine style distinct from the typical vintages, demonstrating thorough canopy management and superb winemaking skills can produce powerful Barolo in warmer years yet a sophisticated style in cool vintages. For a magician, there is no poor vintage! Relatively lower altitude (< 300 m) with warmer soils (sandstone, sand, and chalk) with good drainage help retain heat so that buds break earlier to allow a longer ripening season. In addition, the free draining soils play a key role in 2002 of high precipitation. Sunny September and October with high diurnal ranges mean that grapes can be harvested rather late (around October/20) to achieve full ripeness while retaining higher acidity. A medium(+) level of tannins suggests less time in extraction compared to the traditional winemaking of Barolo to balance the less intense flavours due to cool weather. The high alcohol due to very late harvest is well supported by the concentrated fruit, zesty acidity, and the medium(+) level of high quality tannins. No sign of tertiary notes indicates the wine is still evolving.


4. Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto Riserva 1989

Altitude: 330~420 meters

Aspect: south, south-west

Soils: sandstone, clay

  • pale garnet
  • Nose: medium(+) intensity of mint, lavender, sour cherry, rose petal, chocolate
  • Palate: dry with medium(+) acidity, a medium(+) level of fine yet structured tannins, high alcohol (14%), medium(+) body, medium(+) flavour intensity of rose petal, mint, cedar box (oak) as well as prune, resinous, toffee, chocolate and tar (tertiary notes from ageing), a medium(+) finish with sour cherry, and dry sensation
  • Evaluation: This is an elegant wine with concentrated fruit showing a wide range of primary flavours from floral, red fruit to herbal notes as well as high quality tannins. The subtle secondary flavours suggest wines were primarily matured in old wood. Diverse tertiary flavours strike a good balance with the primary fruit, greatly increasing its complexity. The relatively higher altitude (> 330 m) means delicate, fresh aromas can be preserved and a variety of flavour components can be slowly developed in cooler temperature. This may contribute to its elegant style in Barolo! A medium(+) level of fine tannins indicates gentle extraction.


5. Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Riserva Monprivato Ca d’Morissio 1997

Altitude: 250~320 meters

Aspect: south-west

Soils: sandstone, sand

  • medium tawny
  • Nose: medium(+) intensity of nutty, rose petal, mint, dark chocolate and cloves, hay, toffee
  • Palate: dry with residue sugar, medium acidity, a high level of fine and structured tannins, high alcohol (14.5%), full body, medium(+) flavour intensity of mint, rose, dark chocolate and cloves (oak), soy source and toffee (from ageing), and estery notes, medium(+) finish with saltiness, and dry sensation
  • Evaluation: The wine has a high alcohol and residual sugar, meaning very full body. Nevertheless, the high level of fine and structured tannins and medium(+) flavour intensity manage to support the unusually full body, despite the medium acidity. The overall structure of the wine in this hot vintage is not as strong as typical Barolo. Flavours evolve faster with marked tertiary notes. The estery notes may come from fermentation at lower temperature to promote fresh fruit in the hot vintage.


6. Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 1971

Altitude: 200~400 meters

Aspect: south, south-west

Soils: blending wines from grapes harvested in various vineyards

  • pale garnet
  • Nose: medium(+) intensity of rose petal, sour cherry, mint, spices, and camphor, leathery, tar
  • Palate: dry with medium(+) acidity, a high level of fine yet structured tannins, medium(+) alcohol (13.5%), medium(+) body, medium(+) flavour intensity of rose petal, sour cherry, lavender, spices (oak), and camphor, leathery, farmyard, tar (from ageing), medium(+) finish with sour cherry, mint, and clove
  • Evaluation: This wine has medium(+) body, unusual in Barolo. The medium(+) acidity may indicate that later harvest to reach fuller body and full ripeness of tannins in the capricious weather conditions slightly lowers its acidity. Nevertheless, its wide range of flavours from primary (rose petal, sour cherry, mint from grapes), secondary (spices from oak) to tertiary (camphor, leathery, farmyard, tar from long ageing) along with balanced structures (refreshing acidity, high levels of fine tannins) shows the typicity of high quality Nebbiolo and tremendous complexity achieved via blending different plots and long bottle maturation.
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