來自伊比利半島的美酒除了大家熟知的 Tempranillo、Garnacha 與加烈酒之外，近幾年原生品種釀造的高品質葡萄酒異軍突起。西班牙西北方 Bierzo產區的白葡萄 Godello 與紅葡萄 Mencia 在此次酒展表現驚艷。高酸度中性的 Godello 為亞洲料理的良伴，葡萄品種自身特有的礦物感和迷人果香，在橡木桶陳年後更能表現出多層次的風味。對鍾愛布根地白酒的朋友來說，或許是酒單上的瑰寶。Mencia 具有豐沛的紅、黑莓果味和柔和的單寧，極適合日常飲用。高海拔 (500~650 m)低產率種植環境可釀造出帶有清新紫羅蘭與紅櫻桃、黑莓果等香氣且結構性佳的高品質紅酒，橡木桶陳年可增加丁香、香草風味，瓶陳數年後可發展出皮革、果乾等氣味。Bierzo是個極具特色的產區，三面環山，西部則受到大西洋的影響，日夜溫差較大。尤其板岩山坡地，被認為是種植高質量葡萄的最佳地點。

葡萄牙的中部的 Alentejo 產區，一般來說大眾比較不熟悉，近年來現代化酒莊林立，許多專業知識豐富的釀酒師紛紛投入，葡萄酒品質不斷提升。此次品嚐由三種原生葡萄 (Trincadeira, Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet) 經過18個月法國新橡木桶釀造的紅酒，主調為濃郁的黑色莓果和香料，橡木桶帶來些許香草甜美感，加上柔和的單寧與乾燥炎熱產區難得的清爽酸度，使得14.5%高酒精全然無違和感。João Portugal Ramos 酒莊克服炎熱氣候的秘密武器，便是將三種原生葡萄混合種植於放射狀分布的葡萄園，利用產區充分日照的優勢，卻又可避免葡萄因過度照射而過熟。

Wine List

Lhwines Family Estates in Bierzo, Spain

1. San Salvador de Gotin Godello 2021
2. ABAD Dom Bueno Godello Esencia 2023
3. ABAD Dom Bueno Mencia 2023
4. Tinto Mencia Carracedo Bierzo 2018
5. Tesín de la Campana Mencia 2020

João Portugal Ramos in Alentejo, Portugal

1. Marquês de Borba Reserva 2019

Wine 1 and wine 2 are produced from the prized local grape variety: Godello. Godello is a neutral variety with natural high acidity. Its aromas can range from apple, lime, to stone fruit (depending on levels of ripeness in different weather conditions), and can show herbal or mineral (salty, wet stone) characters. The two wines both show zesty acidity with medium to medium(+) intensity of flavours from apple, lemon to minerality. Wine 1 (San Salvador de Gotin Godello 2021) underwent longer ageing with lees in old French barrels and thus shows attractive creamy, smoky characters. Its secondary notes from lees and barrel ageing balance well with the primary flavours from the grapes, adding complexity. Wine 2 (ABAD Dom Bueno Godello Esencia) shows longer finish with lingering apple, lime zest, salty, and mineral notes. There is a good balance between its well-integrated high acidity and medium(+) flavours of fresh primary fruit. The medium(+) flavour intensity, finish and high acid structure suggest that the wine can evolve into greater complexity (e.g., dry fruit, almond) during bottle maturation with ageing potential for up to five years.

The elegant style of wine 1 and the impressive length of wine 2 reflect high quality grapes from vineyards on the hillside slopes (500~650 m) with poor soils of good drainage. Bierzo DO in the north west of Spain is located further inland with warmer summer and cooler winter as well as some maritime influence from the Atlantic Ocean. The higher altitude results in wider diurnal range. This unique growing environment means higher acidity and fresh fruity aromas can be better retained in the fruit. Marked vintage variation is expected due to the maritime influence from the west. A vertical tasting of these wines sounds interesting! I can image anyone with a particular preference for Burgundy Chardonnay is very likely to enjoy Godello from Bierzo. Particularly, the price ranges are expected to be lower compared to Burgundy.

Wine 3~5 are made from Mencia, the key local black variety. Mencia also has natural high acidity, However, the grape is early to mid-ripening and the acidity can quickly drop while the sugar levels accumulate. Hence, the harvest day is important for the styles of the wines. The flavours can rage from floral, red fruits, black fruits, to spices, clove, and vanilla, coconut (if new oak used). Wine 3 (ABAD Dom Bueno Mencia 2023) is a good quality wine for daily consumption. The wine has fresh acidity, a medium level of ripe tannins, medium body, and medium(+) intensity of floral, red cherry, and creamy notes from malolactic fermentation as well as cinnamon, spices possibly from semi-carbonic maceration.

Wine 4 (Tinto Mencia Carracedo Bierzo 2018) is outstanding in quality. It is pale garnet in colour with a medium(+) level of ripe and fine tannins. The 14.5% high alcohol is fully supported by its full body and good structure of medium(+) zesty acidity and high quality tannins. It shows medium(+) intensity of violet, red cherry, black cherry, clove (from old barrels), and hints of tertiary leathery notes. The finish is long with lingering red/black fruits and spices. The firm structure of acid and tannin with highly concentrated yet fresh fruits and long finish indicate high quality grapes from hilly slopes vineyards with very low yields. The wine can continue evolving and developing more tertiary aromas (e.g., leathery, farmyard, meaty nots) in the next 10 years. The wines are produced from grapes in three different plots and are vinified separately and blended to achieve the desired styles at different vintages. Wine 5 (Tesín de la Campana Mencia 2020) is also a high quality Mencia with ripe and fine tannins. The balance of highly ripening yet not jammy fruits full of black berry and delicate flavours from oak (clove, spices, and hints of vanilla) suggests high quality fruits and skillful application of barrels.

The field-blended vineyard with radial arrangement effectively takes sunlight from every direction while avoiding excessive exposure of the grapes. Photo from João Portugal Ramos.

Wine 6 (Marquês de Borba Reserva 2019) is a unique blend from the three local black varieties (Trincadeira, Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet) with Cabernet Sauvignon in inland Alentejo in central Portugal. Due to its location, the climate is mainly Mediterranean with hot dry summer and mild winter. In such a climate condition, preservation of fresh acidity and primary fruit are of utmost importance to produce high quality wines. The wines has medium(+) fresh acidity and a medium(+) level of ripe tannins with medium(+) body and medium(+) intensity of fresh black berry, creamy notes from malolactic fermentation, and spices, vanilla from maturation in new French oak along with a medium(+) finish of black cherry, spices. The fresh and concentrated primary fruits and medium(+) acidity reflect high quality grapes from early, careful hand harvest and transportation at cooler temperature to reduce oxidation and microbial spoilage. The black cherry and spices are mainly contributed from Trincadeira and Aragonez. Alicante Bouschet and Cabernet Sauvignon are used to add colour, acidity and tannin structure. The grapes are harvested from the specially designed, field-blended vineyard with radial arrangement so that various grape varieties are cultivated together to avoid extreme sunlight. This unique vineyard orientation is their secrete weapon to retain fresh fruit flavours and acidity in the hot and dry climate. The flavour profile indicates the wine is still developing. With longer bottle ageing, charming tertiary aromas such as tobacco, leather will start to shine.