Noble rot

  • Foggy morning with sunny afternoon (to prevent grey rot)
  • More for white grape varieties
  • Healthy and ripe grapes before infected with fungus
  • Microfilements puncture grape skins and water evaporate to concentrate sugar, acidity, and flavours
  • Fungus modifies flavour components, adding complexity
  • Distinctive honey, apricot, orange marmalade, ginger
  • Uneven ripening
  • Several passing to select botrytized grapes
  • Hand harvest often needed
  • Laccase oxidizing grape must and wines
  • Chilling, high dose of SO2, inert gas to reduce oxidation
  • Cultured yeasts to initiate fermentation in high sugar environments
  • Neutral varieties like Semillon: matured in barrels (old or new to integrate flavours and add texture)
  • Aromatic varieties like Riesling: matured in invert vessels (to retain varietal aromas)
  • New oak to add vanilla, clove for more complexity
  • Sauternes, Tokaji, Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese

France-Sauternes

  • Moderate maritime with 1000 mm annual rainfall (marked variation from year to year)
  • Ciron and Garonne Rivers create morning mists
  • Sweet wines: max. yield 25 hL/ha; top estates < 10 hL/ha
  • Semillion, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle
  • Sweet balanced with M to M(+) acidity and H alcohol, F body, pronounced flavours of citrus peel, dried apricot, mango, honey, vanilla and sweet spices (from new oak), and waxy texture
  • Semillion
    • mid-ripening, high yields, prone to noble rot
    • double Guyot common
    • softens H acidity, pronounced flavours of Sauvignon Blanc
    • ageability: developing toasty, honey
  • Harvest from September to November
  • Fermented in stainless steel, concrete tanks, barrels
  • Top estates ferment in barrels (to better integrate fruit and oak), use higher proportion of new oak (30~50%, 100% for Ch. d’Yquem to add vanilla, spices), mature in oak for 18~36 months (to develop toasty, honey tertiary flavours via slow oxidation)

Hungary-Tokaj

  • Moderate continental with warm summer and cold winter
  • 600 mm annual rainfall
  • 48dN northern latitude with longer growing seasons
  • Two rivers create frequent morning fogs in autumn
  • Morning fogs (to develop noble rot); sunny afternoon (to prevent gray rot)
  • Vines planted in slopes for better sunlight interception and to reduce frost damage
  • Soft vocanic bedrock for vines to root deeply and to dig cellar for ageing wine
  • Grey-black fungus help regulate humidity
  • Aszú berries shrivelled on the vine with tiny yield of 2~3 hL/ha
  • Furmint, Harslevelu, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains
  • Furmint (69% planting), an ideal variety for sweet wine production with balanced sweetness, acidity, and flavour
    • neutral, versatile variety
    • high acidity
    • accumulates high levels of sugar
    • thick skins but prone to botrytis
  • Single posts to increase sunlight interception; VSP common
  • Late Harvest
    • fruity style, lighter bodied and less concentrated than Aszu wines
    • 45~110 g/L residual sugar
    • lower proportion of botrytized grapes than Aszú wines
    • stored in stainless steel to retain primary fruit
    • oak is not compulsory
    • release earlier than aszu wines (12~16 months after harvest)
  • Szamorodni
    • as it comes
    • whole bunch of healthy and botrytized grapes
    • sweet (édes) and dry (száraz) styles
    • 45~110 g/L residual sugar
    • sweet wine has a fresher style than Aszu
    • dry style aged under flor yeast for < 10 years without topping up to develop nutty, green apple aromas
    • only aged in oak for 6 months
  • Aszú
    • botrytized berries macerated in must, young finished wines, fermenting must to give lightest to strongest styles
    • deep amber, H acidity, L to M alcohol, pronounced aromas of orange peel, apricots, honey
    • residual sugar >120 g/L
    • base wines > 12.08%; in practice 14.5~15.5%
    • cultured yeasts preferred for reliable fermentation in high levels of sugar
    • fermentation in stainless steel or barrels
    • aged in Hungarian oak for >18 months
  • Eszencia
    • free-run juice trickles from Aszú berries
    • full body, luscious, age for a very long time
    • residual sugar > 450 g/L
    • usually alcohol < 5%
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